North Macedoniaš²š° Today's country is North Macedonia. Skopjeās old station clock has read 5:17 since the 1963 earthquake. At dusk in Ohrid, the lake smells of reeds and grilled fish, and whole families keep circling the promenade after the light has gone. In Skopjeās Old Bazaar, coffee arrives thick with a glass of water, and nobody hurries you off the table. Then the road climbs into beech forest or drops south to Saint Naum, where the water under the rowboats is so clear you can watch the weedsā¦
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