š§š¦ Today's country is Bosnia & Herzegovina. The Sarajevo Film Festival started while the city was still under siege. In Sarajevo, BaÅ”ÄarÅ”ija smells of coffee and metal polish, and the tram takes you from Ottoman lanes to Habsburg facades in minutes. South of Konjic, the Neretva turns cold green and the road starts pulling you toward Herzegovina's stone, figs and heat. Stay past dinner and you see the habit that explains a lot here: families on the korzo, one more coffee ordered, nobodyā¦
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