đłđ¨ Today's country is New Caledonia. A mangrove here draws a heart visible from space. At NoumĂŠaâs MarchĂŠ Municipal, the morning smell is butter from the bakery and lime on raw fish. A few hours north, nickel-red slopes start flashing between cattle country and empty beaches. What stays with you is the switch in register: one evening ends with an apĂŠro by the lagoon, the next with bougna opened from banana leaves. đ Places to visit ⢠NoumĂŠa â This is where the French-Pacific mix makesâŚ