Colombiađ¨đ´ Today's country is Colombia. Radio and TV air the national anthem at 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. Stand on Cartagena's walls at dusk and you get sea salt, frying oil, and the clop of carriage horses at once. A short flight later, BogotĂĄ is cold enough for a bowl of ajiaco and a paper cup of tinto, while the road into Tayrona ends in dry forest and surf. The habit that catches you is simple: greet before you ask, take the tiny cup of coffee, and expect music from the taxi, the shop, and the familyâŚ
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