đ¸đ Today's country is St. Helena. Jacob's Ladder climbs 699 steps straight out of Jamestown. Jamestown feels like a town folded between cliffs, with schoolchildren, church bells and the harbour sharing one narrow strip of shade. Up on the heights the smell changes from salt and diesel to wet fern and timber in the cloud at Diana's Peak. Then you stand at Longwood, where Napoleon spent his last evenings, and the Atlantic stops feeling romantic and starts feeling absolute. đ Places toâŚ