đ°đľ Today's country is North Korea. The official calendar starts in 1912, Kim Il Sung's birth year. At dawn on the Taedong River, Pyongyang smells of coal smoke, river water and cabbage brine. The trams start early, the Metro escalators drop deep, and almost every visitor learns the city's rhythm through a guide's timing rather than their own. Stand in Kim Il Sung Square as the traffic police begin their hand signals, and the place stops being an argument and becomes a city. đ Places toâŚ