đđș Today's country is Hungary. Europeâs oldest mainland underground railway still runs beneath AndrĂĄssy Avenue. At dawn in Budapest, steam rises off SzĂ©chenyi while men in rubber caps move chess pieces between swims. On the Great Plain the air smells of reeds and paprika, and lunch still begins with soup. Then you step into a Tokaj cellar cut into volcanic rock, taste apricot-scented wine in the dark, and the country clicks into place. đ Places to visit âą Budapest â Go for the Danube cityâŠ